Thursday, December 15, 2011

Market days in Wavre



Brussels boasts several neighborhood markets which are quite noteworthy. However, venturing out of the city, or not wanting to fight traffic on the way in, can lead to an enjoyable morning of shopping.
While the capital of Wallonia, Wavre is a well-located town right off the 411 (exit 6), about 20 minutes from Brussels. The city center offers an abundance of shops, cafés and restaurants to suit any budget, from standard stores like Etam to high-end boutiques such as Max Mara.

Apparently, rubbing his behind brings good luck.
Market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays. Wednesdays bring the most market vendors and the most people. Shoppers find a variety of items for the home, apparel and good, fresh produce alongside top-notch butchers and a fishmonger. Even when noon comes and the vendors start to pack up their awnings, many high-quality butcheries, bakeries, cheese shops, and chocolate shops call Wavre home.

Saturday's market takes up less streets but includes a solid supply of florists, bakers and cheese-makers. I highly suggest, for entertainment sake at least, to visit the fishmonger at Wauter & Fils on Saturday. His lively personality, stories and jokes pull customers (his favorite audience) from all corners of the streets. His incredibly fresh fish and seafood guarantees a faithful clientele. You can find Wauter & Fils on Place de l'Eglise, and also on Wednesdays but without monsieur and his comedy.

Right in front of the church is now my favorite baker, Laurent Dumont. With a delicious selection of breads (the Maya being my standard), he also sells tasty and beautiful quiche, tarts and pastries. His baquettes are the closest to French baquettes I have yet to find in Belgium.
For fresh, organic produce I go to La Ferme de l'Hoste, found on Rue du Commerce just off of the Place de l'Eglise. The friendly service matches the bright and colorful produce on offer, including fresh eggs. If you're lucky, you'll be offered a bunch of mint for your patronage.

During the month of December, St. Nicolas and Père Fouetta ride their train through the town streets on Saturdays picking up passengers at la Commune and passing out candy to children.
La Commune de Wavre

All year round, Wavre offers special activities which include a Halloween party, a visit through the “village” of St. Nicolas, as well as Carnaval and Easter celebrations. Periodically, visitors may even find that Place Bosche has turned into a fairground of rides and cotton candy.



Monday, October 10, 2011

Place Flagey, a Brussels square with a little taste of the Big Apple


If I could take my favorite New York City café and place it in Brussels, it would be at Place Flagey. If I could take my favorite New York City neighborhood and bring it closer, I would plunk it down on Place Flagey. If I could place my favorite indie cinema from NY near by, I'd set it up on Place Flagey.

When I can't be in New York City, I go to Place Flagey.

This rather intimate square in Ixelles, not too deep into the city, encompasses all the “little things” I miss about NYC. When I want to reminisce about walking in Central Park, I take a stroll around the Ixelles ponds. When I yearn for unique theater, music, or programs for the children, I visit Flagey , an art deco mecca of entertainment for the whole family. When I want the convenience of neighborhood commerce, I find small eateries, a bike shop, a book store, and an outdoor market.

For a dose of energy from an ecclectic mix of people, a light meal, a hot coffee drink, or a fresh mint tea, I push through the door of Belga Café – or simply sit on its terrace. With free wi-fi access, Belga Café is the perfect “hang out” for professionals, students and an artsy/literary crowd. The eatery also features live music. What better way to remember jazzy weekends in the Big Apple? For other dining experiences, plenty of restaurants sprawl into the side streets.


People revere NYC neighborhoods because of their energy, hustle and bustle. Place Flagey offers energy without over excitement and enough people without a crowd.

For a weekend brunch, a relaxing walk or unique entertaining, Place Flagey is a small square in Brussels that guarantees a perfect day (or night) out.


Tuesday, September 06, 2011

Playing in the Cabanes at Seneffe Castle


If you have ever walked into your child's bedroom to find sheets sprawled from the dresser, then tucked under the mattress over to the arm chair and tied unconvincingly to the window handle, keep reading. If you have ever walked into your living room and found blankets thrown over the dining table and clothes-pinned to its matching chairs, keep reading. Finally, if you have ever walked into your garden only to find plastic bags hanging from tree limbs and little heads peaking out to say, “Look at our tent!”, I have got the perfect outing for you.
Until November 2011, the Château de Seneffe is host to a magical exhibition that will please the child in, and with, us all. In French, cabane refers to any sort of little house whether up in a tree or down on the ground and usually the home-made variety using sticks, planks of wood, fabrics, etc. Just as any child, and any helpful adult, feels proud of her creation, the artists who have participated in “Cabanes” have produced real chefs-d'oeuvre. The concept behind each cabane may seem more sophisticated than child's play. But, one necessary aspect is irrevocably the same as what motivates any child to dig through the linen closet or through the garage... imagination.
This outdoor exhibition is entirely free – good news when thinking of how to entertain the little ones on the weekends. Upon entering the front gates into La Cour d'Honneur, Frederic Geurts demands attention with his metallic sphere cabane. Upon seeing this almost weightless construction, my six year-old Belgian surrealist immediately remarked, “Ça, c'est pas une cabane!” Imagination is the word of the day. There is no harm in reminding children, nor adults, that everyone can perceive differently what we all may be looking at. Immediately to the left of the gates is La Chapelle showcasing, in video, each cabane. This overview prefaces the very unique houses the visitor will be experiencing.
Guests to Seneffe can roam freely throughout the grounds. I recommend, however, stepping into the castle to pick up a brochure detailing the where and what of each exhibit. Since the drive from Brussels to Seneffe can take a good 45 minutes, this is also an ideal time to stop into the restrooms (to the right and down the stairs).
Stepping out of the entrance, my daughter and I turned left and proceeded to the Jardin des Trois Terrasses. Pierre Courtois works with cubical red designs to produce four cabanes. One sits like a tall rectangle framed by walls of greenery. The second one lacks walls but limits are marked by four red poles. The third one is the highest. This red cube literally hangs above the visitor. The final cabane resembles most what someone might find in their own garden made from mosquito netting. These four creations are a perfect introduction to the variety of forms a cabane can take and will take throughout the exhibition.
From the Jardin des Trois, we headed behind the shrubs and past Le Théâtre. Near the stream and its bridge, we were both eager to run into a cabane by Dimitri Vanggrunderbeek. His three red, green and yellow cubes tempted us all too strongly to peek our heads through their square windows.
We continued up the path to a rather American country scene – a saloon. Jason Van Der Woude creates a cabin one could find in any western movie. We walked around and glanced inside to find boots lined up as straight as the glasses on the bar. So real was the scene, I expected the upright piano to start playing itself.
Towards the Grand Bassin, my daughter and I arrived with a beautiful view of the château. She ran ahead as soon as the next cabin was in sight. Van Der Woude now contrasts the dark, closed in wood beams with an open, glass structure. On this particularly sunny day, the shadows shown as much a part of the cabane as its recycled beams.
Immediately following, Loreta Visic's cabane reminded me of all the washing waiting for me at home. She has created a house with very imaginative, and yet very appropriate, walls. Shirts, skirts, pants, underwear - wardrobes of colors, textures and styles - hang straight until the wind blows. “Look, I have the same stockings!” My daughter exclaimed. I could only imagine what she was conjuring up for her next cabane.
The rest of the promenade lead us back around to the castle. We walked into large boxes and admired towering spheres. While strolling through the grounds, more than just our voices rang in between the trees. Speakers, cleverly disguised as hanging flower pots, play recordings from works by Casanova and Madame de Sévigné. Once at the Orangerie, we took advantage of the cafe to have a refreshment and talk about our favorite exhibits.

If, during your visit, the weather is not as sunny and warm as we had it, the castle is definitely worth a visit. For more information, visit the website of the Domaine du Château de Seneffe at www.chateaudeseneffe.be. There is a variety of exhibitions and entertainment to enjoy.


Thursday, June 16, 2011

Joan Miró, the Lyrical Painter: an exhibition at the ING Cultural Center in Brussels


Some works by Joan Miró may provoke certain on-lookers to remark, “A child could have done that.” To which, I do not believe Miro would have been completely insulted. In fact, years of process brought Miró to the simplicity and the innocence of the art he sought. Keep in mind that the words simple and innocent do not mean childish, even if child-like.
To begin, Miró was born in Barcelona in 1893. In 1919, a transitional year for Dadaism and Surrealism, Miró moved to Paris to be with his favorite artists and poets. He read Mallarmé and Baudelaire. He titled his works in French because that was the language of his favorite poets.
Poetry became a support of Miró's artistic exploration. He studied words so that those words could transmute themselves onto his canvases as letters or as symbolic shapes. As with poetry, a good poet must know the rules to be able to break them effectively. Likewise, a true artist is trained classically to be able to explode that education effectively. Miró's cubist work certainly does not resemble his later work, but he needed that stage to evolve. Looking at the full picture of his artistic journey, the eye witnesses the progression of straight-edges into the dreaminess of his curved line.
The start of this exhibition unveils how some of his forms literally took shape - by taking on the contour of print images he cut and pasted into collages. He would eventually paint the placement and form of the cutouts onto a canvas. Beyond black lines on a white background, his primary colors bleed behind the dark outbursts in his subsequent series.
As with many exhibitions, the viewer starts to recognize patterns, colors and lines unique to each artist. We, as spectators, can experience the personal journey of the artist. Miró had been studying art in Paris. The formality of that education gave him the yearning to reach out, stretch out, find a freedom. During the fearsome years of fascism and war, Miró went to the Normandy coast. He would peer out to the black sky above the sea. His anger and frustration during this period created Constellations. The vibrant colors would always be present in Miró's work. However, the war years splashed more black - his personal explosions against the fascist regime. As the enemy entered France, Miró moved back to Barcelona.
Advancing in his personal quest for freedom, Miró reached a point where he had had enough of painting. Still by every means an artist, he experimented with different materials like a poet explores different sounds and rhythms. He used cardboard, metal, fabric, rope, among others. He burned, molded, disfigured, manipulated the materials as if he were searching for their essence, and at the same time, his own. Half-way through the exhibition, the patron can see the evolution from painting to tapestry. A collage of fabrics and materials replace his canvases and acrylics.
Down the next hall, color starts to seep back into the foreground. Miró's colors provide meaning. For example, blue represents the spiritual while green represents the material.The artist enters his last years of life fully aware of them. He strives then to master the art of simplicity. To paraphrase, he once said that the line on the canvas may seem simple, may not have taken long to produce, but the idea behind the movement had taken him years to master. This statement is evident after his trips to Japan. In that far away land, he comes closer to home, to his inner freedom to produce a precise stroke of the brush or of the bamboo pen.
This tightness and sparseness of line and form could have only arose from his life's journey. From collage, through poetry and text, into forms atop which splotches a black scream, Miró stretches and tightens and controls the end product. He returns to a humble canvas and paints with respect the final strokes of his life. Helas, when someone looks at a work by Miró, he might say it looks like a child would have or could have done the same. And as far as the artist's reaction to that, Miró might be all too content to hear it.

In the end, art is never above a child's grasp. The organization, Art Basics for Children (ABC), has masterly set up artistic stations on the bottom floor of ING to grab onto young creativity and encourage the exploration of different techniques and styles unique to Miró. In this sense, a visit to the Miró exhibition at ING is a worthwhile outing – either as a quick run-through during your lunch hour or as an afternoon destination for the whole family.
Photo taken at the Foundation Jaon Miro in Barcelona

Hopefully, this taste of Miró entices an interest to see the collection of Miró at the Joan Miró Foundation in Barcelona. I had first visited the foundation in 2004 after having already an appreciation for the artist. I was in absolute amazement of so many of his masterpieces in one place. I was thrilled yet again to pop into the Espace Culturel ING and bask in a small part of Miró's world.

For more information, refer to the following sites: